We awoke early and creakily made our way downstairs for breakfast of porridge.
As usual, we have no set plan - we must work on this when being tour-guides for Mum! It works OK for us, but she seems confused by our lack of organisation. We eventually decide to head to Lake Chuzenji, Kegon Falls and Nikko for the famous shrines.
The roads around this area are a refreshing change from the city streets, being mountainous, surrounded by forest and full of hairpin bends. Lake Chuzenji is a huge, deep lake created by a volcanic eruption about 20,000 years ago. I'm sure it's beautiful in the autumn with the changing colours of the foliage as a backdrop, but today our first sight of it was cold, flat and grey. Rather incongruously, in one area there floated a fleet of swan-shaped pedal boats. It didn't take Rhiannon long to persuade Tim to take her out in one. They were they only signs of life on the entire lake. Well, apart from some chilly looking ducks dibbling around the edges. Meanwhile, Mum and I went beachcombing across the black sand. And then the sun came out, transforming the scenery.
Suddenly I had an idea. I needed some rocks to border my little garden which I was planning on remodelling. There were plenty of lava rocks around so I created a small pile to put in the car later.
When Rhiannon and Tim disembarked from their swan, we went into a lakeside café to warm up with some delicious hot chocolate and toasted sandwiches and pondered why nobody else was around. It was like a ghost town. Tim reclaimed the car from the deserted public car park; we loaded my rocks into the boot, much to Tim's embarrassment, and headed off to our next tourist spot.
On the way we spotted a fantastic view so poor Tim had to find a place to stop for a photo. The road builders in Japan are way ahead of the game and there are lots of laybys ready for just such a need and the result was this picture of Lake Chuzenji and the Kegon Falls.
Kegon Falls is a scenic little area with a couple of souvenir shops, and unsurprisingly a waterfall. You can't quite see the falls from the car park, even if you hang over the fence so we trekked into the "entrance". To our great surprise we found that there was a lift (elevator) to take us to the base of the falls! The Japanese really do tame their wilderness to an extraordinary extent. The lift cost a few hundred yen but there was no other way down so in we traipsed. Inside the metal box was a television showing a video of the falls in various beautifully shot scenes at different times of year.
At the bottom we exited into a chilly, damp but clean and bright corridor to make our way to the "Viewing Platform". Yes, the falls were spectacular with a 97 metres drop, but nothing compared to waterfalls in other parts of the world, and somehow lessened by the fact that we were herded to certain areas and not allowed to explore by ourselves. Dramatic cliffs soared above us showing their volcanic origins in the construction of the stone pillars. Back into the lift again for the return journey to the car park.
Naturally we investigated the souvenir shops. Mum needed to get some bits and bobs to take back to the family in the UK and I can't resist a shop. Especially a pottery shop of which there was one. Once that little excusrsion was completed we headed for Nikko town again.
Oddly enough, it seemed closed again - very devoid of human life. So last night's impression was not due to the time of day, rather the time of year. It obviously wasn't tourist season although the Kegon Falls had a number of visitors. The shops that were open were not interesting at all. A most peculiar place.
But there were temples so we visited them instead. More specifically, we visited one temple - the Toshugu Shrine. This is the most famous shrine complex in Nikko and perhaps in the whole of Japan.
Once again in a car park, Tim declared he wasn't going to visit another shrine. "I've seen enough shrines". Rhiannon took one look at the many steps leading up to the shrine and said she'd stay with Daddy. So Mum and I went.
We've all heard of the Three Wise Monkeys, haven't we? Hear no evil, see no evil and speak no evil. But were you aware that they came from Japan? I certainly wasn't and was fascinated to discover this little titbit of information from our guide book. Toshugo Shrine is where the carving is to be found, although it wasn't anywhere near as large as I expected of this legend, just another intricately carved detail over a door of quite an insignificant building in this massive shrine complex.
We wandered around the large complex, admiring but not truly understanding the significance of all the buildings and accoutrements as usual. But we enjoyed the scenery, especially the moss-covered lanterns and ancient trees. On the way out I spotted a place to buy fortunes. These are common at all shrines and there's a fabulous "get-out-clause" if you inadvertently buy a less than favourable fortune. You tie the paper with the ill-fortune to a tree or rack and let the wind blow the misfortune away. Sorted!
This is one of the only places in Japan where you can buy these fortunes in English so I bought three: Mum declined. Mine was A+ perfect, as was Rhiannon's. Tim's wasn't quite so good, possibly a B, but as he hadn't come to the shrine to read it, he couldn't let the wind blow it away.
Another night on the futons - they didn't feel any more comfortable - and then away back to Tokyo.
Building where the Three Wise Monkeys carving is found.
Barrels of Sacred Sake
One of the Guardians at the Toshugo Shrine, Nikko
